Return
to Cocos
Howard Hall 5/10
Shmulik flooded the ballast tanks and the DeepSee
submersible began to drop toward the ocean floor. Avi Klapfer,
Dave Forsyth, and I were hovering beneath the sub as she began
her descent. I raised my RED camera and grabbed a shot of
the hull silhouetted against the sun then waited as it fell
to the bottom one hundred and twenty feet below. When the
submersible touched down, Dave, Avi and I climbed aboard.
Our dive had two purposes. Avi wanted me to capture
high-resolution RED motion picture images of the sub as it
passed through the canyon-like channel between the Manuelita
Islet and Cocos. I wanted to get a feel for how comfortable
the sub would be to ride under full thrust. After developing
diving protocols that benefit from a synergy between divers
and the submersible, I hope to use the DeepSee to transport
a team of trimix rebreather divers 300 feet down to a place
called The Arch. There I hope to film the elusive ragged-toothed
shark.
With all three divers in position, Shmulik hit the
thrusters and we powered ahead into the canyon. I was pleased
at how comfortable the ride was. I had some difficulty holding
the Gates Deep RED housing against the flow. But I realized
that on a deep trimix dive, I could tie-off the camera and
clip myself in, leaving my hands free to monitor my rebreather
instruments. Avi and I were riding on either side of the large
acrylic sphere that protected Shmulik and his passengers.
Dave was behind the sphere and said there was almost no flow
felt there. That would be the best place to tie off cameras
and bailout gas for the trip to the Arch, I thought.
After a few minutes moving over the rotolyth-covered
sand, I began to perceive the shadow formed by the steep walls
of the Channel. Looking to my left I saw another shadow. It
was moving. I waved to Shmulik and dropped off the sub with
my camera. A large tiger shark was moving in the distance.
I would love to get a shot of the submersible with a tiger
in the foreground. But as soon as I moved toward it, the shark
turned away. Still, I had seen my first tiger shark at Cocos!
During the last twenty years, Michele and I have
spent almost 200 days diving at Cocos Island. We’ve
have made four films here including an IMAX film called Island
of the Sharks. Our last production at Cocos was an episode
of the PBS Series, Nature, called Shark Mountain. It aired
in 2003. That was Michele’s and my last trip to the
Island until now. We haven’t dived here for almost seven
years.
We were both very interested to see how Cocos has
changed in seven years. Island of the Sharks was made during
the most powerful El Nino event in history. Water temperatures
soared to over 87 degrees. The hammerheads and many of the
large pelagic animals disappeared. The hard corals nearly
all bleached and died.
As soon as the 1998 El Nino broke, the hammerheads
and other big animals returned. But the coral garden on east
side of Manuelita remained covered in algae. It was still
largely dead in 2003 when we made Shark Mountain.
Now the hard corals are back at Cocos and seem as
large and as healthy as they had been prior to the 1998 El
Nino. The return of the coral garden was just one change that
has taken place at Cocos since our last visit. Since then
something else has changed. Tiger sharks have rediscovered
the Island. In all my diving at Cocos I had never seen a tiger
shark and had only heard of one sighting since 1990. Now tigers
are seen almost every day at Cocos.
Despite no one ever having seen a tiger shark until
very recently, tiger sharks are not entirely new at Cocos.
Hans and Lotte Hass wrote about diving at Cocos in 1951. When
they were here, nearly sixty years ago, they saw tiger sharks
everywhere. Something changed at Cocos in the years before
Undersea Hunter began supporting dive operations at the Island
in 1990. The tiger sharks disappeared. Now they are back.
Avi, Dave, and I moved into the Channel with the
current as Shmulik held DeepSee at the mouth. As I moved into
the Channel looking for a good vantage point, Avi suddenly
pointed high on the Channel wall. A huge tiger was moving
into the Channel along the escarpment. I took a quick shot,
but was hopelessly late. The animal was already moving away.
A few moments later DeepSee entered the Channel and Shmulik
skillfully maneuvered the craft between the walls as the current
roiled and buffeted the sub. The image looked great through
the large RED viewfinder.
As good as the view was of DeepSee passing through
the Manuelita Channel, it can’t compare to the view
from within it – especially in those shadowy depths
beyond the range of divers. Michele and I made four dives
aboard DeepSee. Shmulik piloted three of the dives. We dived
a seamount called Everest where at 300 feet I saw fish species
I have never seen before. The acrylic sphere completely disappears
once you are submerged and you find yourself surrounded by
the deep ocean. Soaring over Everest we saw silky sharks,
yellowfin tuna, and an enormous school of hammerhead sharks.
On our second dive Shmulik took us to the edge of
the Cocos plateau. Here, 700 feet below the surface, the sandy
plain suddenly ends in a dramatic wall that plunges into the
abyss. We descended to nearly 1,000 feet where we saw many
bizarre creatures including a three-foot jellynose fish that
looked like something out of science fiction.
After ascending the wall, we moved to a place called
Piedra. There Shmulik flooded his ballast tanks and settled
gently on the sand at 600 feet. A half-dozen mobula rays glided
through our lights. We watched as large grouper (a species
never seen in shallower water at Cocos) hunted brilliantly
colored deep-water reef fish. But the best part was when Shmulik
turned off the lights.
There is not much light at 600 feet, but there is
enough. It’s like being in the desert on a full moon.
The rocks are shadowy silhouettes that seem to come alive
in the darkness. Indeed, thousands of fish that had shunned
our lights emerged and filled the water around and above us.
Many looked into the dome from inches away. Since you can’t
see the acrylic, it’s almost impossible to believe you
can’t reach out and touch them.
On our final dive aboard DeepSee, Avi piloted us
to the Arch. This amazing structure is at the southeast side
of Cocos at a depth of 300 feet. Not only is this deep reef
covered with spectacular invertebrate growth unlike anything
seen in the north, but it is also the haunt of ragged-tooth
sharks. As soon as Avi reached the bottom a hundred yards
away from the Arch, we began seeing sharks. Some were nearly
fourteen feet long with a face bristling with fang-like teeth.
Using the remote HD camera in the Gates housing, we captured
images of these spectacular sharks as they moved over the
deep reef. Seeing them completed my reason for coming back
to Cocos Island.
Ever since Steve Drogin built the DeepSee submersible
I have been fascinated with the idea developing a synergy
between deep trimix rebreather divers and the sub for deep
reef exploration. For me, our return to Cocos confirmed the
validity of the idea. Using the strengths of both technologies,
deep reef exploration can be taken to an entirely new level.
I expect that my next trip back to Cocos will be the adventure
of a lifetime.
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